Method and machine for sewing sahara sandals



May 12, 1936.

METHOD AND MACHINE FOR SEWING SAHARA SANDALS Filed Dec. 31, 1934 5 Sheets-Sheet l f M y 59 c M. BAGSHAW' 59 May 12,1936. c. M. BAGSHAW 2,u4o,4s9 METHOD AND MACHINE FOR SEWING SAHARA SANDALS Filed Dec. 31, 1954 SSheets-Sheet 2 May 12, 136. c. M, BAGSHAW METHOD AND MACHINE FOR SEWING SAHARA SANDALS Filed Dec.

51, 1954 3 Sheets-Sheet 3;

Patented May 12, 1936 l V IVEETHOD AND MACHINE FOR SEWING SAHARA SANDALS Charles Martin Bagshaw, Leicester, England, as-

signor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J a corporation of New Jersey Application December 31, 1934, Serial No. 759,899 In Great Britain January 6, 1934 5 Claims. (Cl. 112-34) The present invention is concerned with iming both hands free for this purpose) and will sew provements in or relating to shoe making or succession of single stitches positioningthe work sewing, and has particular reference to a novel upon the horn so that the needle alternately enters manner of, and means for, forming a seam bethe 501% margin a d the pp margin If the $016 5 tween two shoe parts, especially between a shoe and/ pp be perforated, as above indicated, 5 upper and a sole of the type, used for so-called the operator will position the work prior to each Sahara sandals, which ha an upturned marginal stitch forming reciprocation of the needle so that portion to which th upper is connected the needle (which stops in raised position) will The form of Sahar d l now commonly used descend through a perforation therebeneath. The

comprises a sole moulded to have its margin feeding mechanism With which Ordinary McKay 10 turned up all round and having its upper laced, sewing machines are provided which is operative by a. hand operati n, t thong or cord to to feed the work from right to left of the machine this margin. Th h lacing Qperation just (looking at the machine from the front) is conreferred to has be n, however, very slow one veniently rendered inoperative and I have found (even a skilled work person generally requiring to that quite satisfactory and not unreasonably slow, 5 spend about as long as twenty minutes in lacin sewing may be obtained when the operator manu- One sandal) nd h added considerably to the ally takes care of the feed of the work in the labour cost involved in making the sandals, which Special manner above indicated-Viz, that at have commonly t be put, upon the market at one stroke, the needle will enter the sole margin a very low price. It is one of the various objects While at the next Stroke it will enter the upper 2.64

of the present invention to provide an improved margin and so method of securing together the upper and sole BY Way of example the a'ccompanymg drawings of a Sahara, Sandal which will produce, a sandal show one form of sandal, the upper and sole of v g dvant ges of, and presenting. a somewhich have been joined together by a method in what similar appearance to, a sandal that has accordanc with the invention 25 been hand laced while, nevertheless, capable of the drawings: being performed by mechanical aid more rapidly Figure 1 1s a PBI'SDBCUVBVIGW of the illustrative than hand lacing can be carried out. sandal (before it has had its heel attached there- I have found that it is possible to employ a to) only aportion of the novel seam between upper I shoe Sewing machine of wen known Chaim and sole being shown in full, but it being under- 30 stitch McKay type preferably modified in certain stood that the seam is actually continued in simirespects hereinafter mentioned, to form the union fashlqn to that Shown both h toe and between upper and sole. In carrying out this heel of the Sandal; Flgure 1S method, an upper and Sole may be employed mentary view to a larger scale than Figure 1 illuspared exactly as would be the case for hand lactmtmg clearly h natuiie of h 9 i ing, the upper being conveniently, as is frequently upper and Sole; Flgure detain of P done in the case of hand laced sandals, formed parts of the M y i machm? which pref" in at least two separate portions (a heel part pora f used m Sewmg the seam; Flgmie 4 1S tion and a forepart portion) which are perforated tall of the new thread finger; Flgure 51s 40 along their margins to receive fastening detail view of the presser-foot; and Figure 6 is a 40 means (which will ordinarily be a thick thread view in front elevation of the head of the complete or cord) and the sole merely having an upstandmg rim (with no Oubtumed flange or the like The illustrative sandal comprises a sole l thereon) conveniently perforated and it may be moulded have l p dlng marginal porbevelled along its upper margin, and the upper tion 3. The upper is formed of two separated 45 and sole are conveniently presented to the sew- Portions, heel P portion 5 and a fore P ing machine merely in the loose state and not portion which, in the p t d, is previously attached together in any fashion. The itself actually p d of tw parts 1 and 9. sewing machine is preferably equipped with driv- Prior to the s m y f upp d s t r, ing means including a one revolution clutch so the l wer mar n l p n f he f rmer is that upon actuating a treadle the operator can provided with a series of equally spaced per-' cause the machine to sew a single stitch. The opforations l l therearound, while the marginal erator will place the upper and sole in assembled portion 3 of the sole is perforated with a series relation upon the usual horn of the machine (havof correspondingly spaced perforations l3. As 55 seen in the drawings, the upper and sole margin are connected together by a seam l which, besides serv ing to join these elements, has an attractive decorative appearance somewhat allied to that resulting from hand lacing, as previously performed.

The seam l5 in theshoe shown in the drawings is produced in a well-known McKay type sewing machine of the general nature of that illustrated and described in the patent to Richardsion of a treadle, the needle is caused to move' once downwardly from a fixed upward stopping position and then upwardly once again to the stopping position to form a single stitch. I have found it preferable also to lock the horn in a fixed position in which the curved portion of the horn extends directly to the right of the sewing position.

The modified presser foot indicated at I 8 in Figures 3 and 5'w1'th which the machine is equipped has a horizontal workeengaging'rportion about inch in length which extends to the right from a locality some inch or less to the right of the axis of the needle. This portion is conveniently about inch in width and may be slotted so that it forms ,a fork having .two parallel arms extending towards the needle. I It has already been mentioned that the machine is provided with a one-revolution clutch.

This clutch is so arranged that the machine is always stopped when the needleis near the highest point of its stroke. The presser foot lift is so timed that the presser foot will be raised from the work at the stopping positiongso, that at the stopping position the operator isfree to position the work for the next stitch. In the ordinary machine, the arm I9 carries the feed point which feeds the workintermita tently during the formation of the seam. In the present machine the feed point is done away with, and the arm I 9 is utilized to carry the. new thread finger above referred to. This thread" finger is formed as a smallspade-shaped member 2|, the plane of which is horizontal and which has at its left hand side an edge some .inch in length. This member is, normally located at the right of the axis of .the needle,

but is arranged to have a movement across the axis of the needle andunderneath the needle. When, during the production of a seam like that shown in the drawings,.the needle is .in stopping position, it will, as already mentioned, be near the upper limit of loop of thread coming up from the work passing around its barb. The presser foot will be raised and the operator will" stitch. Having donethis; he will depress the treadle to causethe machine to turn through one revolution and the next stitch will be formed, but I have" found that, owing to .the sidewise displacement; of the point at which the needle A change also.

, mounted on the arm its stroke and will have a:

position the work (by' moving it transversely of what would be the line' of feed in an ordinary 'machine) for the next is to enter the work and the point from whic comes the loop of thread which passes round the needle, there is some tendency for the needle in its descending stroke to lose the said loop of thread which'would, of course, result in a dropped stitch. It is to avoid this tendency that I provide the thread finger above :mentioned; This is given such a motion thatjustas theneedle begins to descend it (the thread finger) passes from right to left across the axis of the needle and just below the point of the needle. Its said left hand edge contacts with both legs of the loop of thread passing round the barb of the needle and urges them to the left. The thread finger then begins to retract and just passes to the right of the axis of the needle as the needle begins to descend so that the parts just clear each other. The'described action will, however, have been effective to ensure that the loop of thread in the barb of the needle is not in such position as the needle descends that the needle will lose it in its descent.

As has been stated, the needle enters the work. at points successively staggered with relation to.

each other. In order that the work may be positioned correctly under the needle, without unduly stretching the loop of thread on the: needle, the one-revolution clutch with which the machine is provided is arranged to stop .the machine after the needle has moved downwardly a short distance from its highest position so that. the loop of thread on the needle is slackened to permit the work to be easily moved transversely,

of what would be, in an ordinary machine, the line of feed. Y I To impart the desired motion to the thread finger it is rigidly secured to the lower end of a block 23, the upper end of which is pivotally. l9, which arm is actuatedv patent above referred as in the machine of the to, through a link 25 and lever 21 from a cam 3| on the cam shaft of the machine. The thread finger is yieldingly held in position by a spring 33 stretched between the lower end of the block 23 and the link 25. The movement of 'the'block 23 under the influence of by the stop pin 35 on the arm l9.

' This arrangementissuch that the motion of the thread finger in the direction of right toleft (that is, its motion from its normal retracted position towardsand across the axis of the nee-' dle) is a yielding one so that, should the machine be so wrongly adjusted that the thread finger in moving from right to left actually contacts with the needle, breakage of the needle or in this direction.

The operation of the machine to sew a seam" It will be convenient for the operator to begin by sewing together the sole and the heel portion 5 of the upper. The operator (who will have both hands free for of the sole being more or less verticaland the horn tip contacting with the marginal portion 3- at the interior surface thereof. The operator- Will depress the treadle whereupon the needle will descend through the perforation into the horn tip wherein it will have the thread loopedthis purpose) will place the two" parts together in proper register and bring the two parts over the horn of the machine, the plane the spring" is limited,

' thread finger is not so likely to occur as it would be if the motion of the thread finger was positive round it by the whirl and will then be retracted, the presser foot holding the work down while the needle draws the loop of thread upwardly through it. Just as the needle reaches the highest point of its stroke, the presser foot is raised and after the needle has started on its down stroke the machine stops. Let it be supposed that the first perforation penetrated by the needle is a perforation l3 in the sole. The operator is then able rapidly to position the work so that the perforation II (in the upper part) which is next adjacent to the perforation 13 through which a stitch has been formed directly underlies the needle and when once this is done depresses the treadle again, whereupon a stitch is formed through the perforation II. In this fashion the operator will sew alternate stitches through the sole and upper, producing the seam I5 illustrated in the drawings. When the heel part portion 5 of the upper has been sewn all round its lower periphery to the sole, a decorative effect may be obtained along that marginal portion of the sole at which, in the sandal shown in the drawings, there is a gap between the parts of the upper, by alternatively making the needle of the machine pass through the perforations 13 in the sole margin and pass just clear of the edges of the sole. This produces the ornamental seam seen at ll of the drawings. The fore part portions 9 and 1 are sewn to the sole in a corresponding fashion to the heel part portion and, on account of the fact that they are merely loosely assembled in proper register with the sole manually by the operator as the sewing proceeds, no difficulty is experienced in allowing the horn properly to penetrate right to the toe of the sandal as sewing is carried out therearound since, at this stage, one side of the upper will still be unattached. When securing has been carried out right round the sole and the point at which sewing was started is again reached, the two ends of the thread may be tied together in suitable manner to prevent the stitches running loose.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and a machine embodying the features of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is:

1. The method of securing the flanged sole to the heel and forepart of the upper of a Sahara sandal which comprises forming a series of lacing holes in adjacent edges of the sole and upper parts, placing the sole and an upper part in proper relative position and presenting them with their edges abutting to a chain stitch McKay sewing machine with a perforation in the needle path, and moving the work after each reciprocation of the needle to bring the perforations in the upper part and sole alternately into the needle path to form an ornamental seam connecting the parts and sole consisting of a series of chain stitches, the enchained loops of which extend across the abutting edges on the outside of the sandal.

2. The method of securing the flanged sole to the heel and forepart of the upper of a Sahara sandal which comprises placing the sole and an upper part in proper relative position and presenting them with their edges abutting to a chain stitch McKay sewing machine, and moving the work after each reciprocation of the needle to cause the needle to pass alternately through the upper part and sole to form an ornamental seam connecting the upper part and sole consisting of a series of chain stitches, the enchained loops of which extend across the abutting edges on the outside of the sandal.

3. The method of securing the flanged sole to the heel and toe part of the upper of a Sahara sandal which comprises placing the sole and an upper part in proper relative position and presenting them with their edges abutting to a chain stitch McKay sewing machine, and moving the work after each reciprocation of the needle to cause the needle to pass alternately through the upper part and sole and to pass alternately through the sole and outside of the sole edge along the space between the toe and heel portions of the upper to form an ornamental seam consisting of a series of chain stitches, the enchained loops of which extend across the abutting edges of the sole and upper parts on the outside of the sandal and over the edge of the sole along the space between the toe and heel portions of the upper.

4. A machine for use in securing the flanged sole to the heel and forepart of the upper of a Sahara sandal which comprises stitch forming devices including a work supporting horn, a straight hook needle, a thread finger, means for moving the thread finger into contact with the needle loop between the needle and the work during each stitch forming cycle, and means for supporting the thread finger to permit it to yield upon contact with the needle.

5. The method of securing the flanged sole to the heel and forepart of the upper of a Sahara sandal which comprises placing the sole and an upper part in proper relative position and presenting them with their edges abutting to a chain stitch McKay sewing machine, stopping the machine after each stitch forming cycle with the needle slightly below its highest position and with the loop of thread on the needle in a flattened condition, and moving the work after each reciprocation of the needle to cause the needle to pass alternately through the upper part and sole to form an ornamental seam connecting the upper part and sole consisting of a series of chain stitches, the enchained loops of which extend across the abutting edges on the outside of the sandal. 

